AdLinks to shops on this site are ads: we may earn a commission if you buy. How this works

Shutterswoop

Buying guide

How to buy a used camera lens safely

Where to buy, what to check on the glass and the mechanics, the test shots to take, and your rights if something goes wrong.

Shutterswoop · Updated 26 October 2026

The short answer

A well-looked-after lens can work for decades, so buying used is one of the best ways to save money in photography. Buy from a camera shop's used range if you want the most protection, check the glass and the mechanics, take a few test shots, and walk away from any price that looks too good to be true.

Why used lenses are good value

Camera bodies age quickly: new sensors and autofocus arrive every few years. Lenses don't. A good lens has no shutter to wear out, and the glass doesn't get worse with age if it's stored properly. When a maker releases a new version (a "Mark II"), the old one often drops in price while still taking excellent pictures.

Where to buy

Camera shops' used ranges

Many UK camera shops sell used lenses they've bought in or taken in part-exchange. They inspect and grade each one, and most give a warranty, often six to twelve months. Check the warranty on the listing: it's part of the real price. This is the safest way to buy used.

Marketplaces and private sellers

Often cheaper, with more choice, but listings vary and your protection is weaker. Always pay through the site's own checkout so its buyer protection applies, and never pay a stranger by bank transfer.

What to check

Look at the photos closely, ask the seller if anything isn't shown, and check these in person if you can.

CheckWhat you're looking for
Front and rear glassNo deep scratches or chips. Light cleaning marks rarely show in pictures; a scratch on the rear element is worse than one on the front.
FungusThin, thread-like webs inside the lens when you shine a torch through. Avoid: it spreads and is costly to clean.
HazeA milky, cloudy look inside when lit from behind. It lowers contrast. Avoid unless the price reflects a repair.
DustA few specks inside are normal in any used lens and don't show in photos.
AutofocusQuick and quiet, close up and far away, with no grinding or hunting in good light.
StabilisationIf the lens has it, the viewfinder image should settle and stay steady.
Zoom and focus ringsSmooth all the way round, with no stiff or gritty spots.
Mount and contactsClean contacts and no loose screws. Heavy wear means heavy use.
Filter threadNo dents. A dented thread often means the lens was dropped.

Test shots to take

  1. Wide open (the smallest f-number): photograph something flat and detailed, like a brick wall, straight on. The centre should be sharp.
  2. Compare the sides. If one side or corner is clearly softer than the other, the lens may be "decentred" after a knock. Walk away.
  3. At f/8 or f/11, photograph a plain bright sky. Dark spots that move when you change the aperture are on the sensor; ones that stay put may be on the lens.
  4. Every focal length on a zoom: check autofocus at the widest and the longest end.

Your rights

Buying online from a shop, you usually have 14 days to change your mind, and the lens must be as described and work properly. Buying from a private seller, the lens must match its description, but you have fewer rights, which is why paying through a marketplace's checkout matters.

Spotting a real deal

A price is only a deal compared with what the same lens usually sells for, in the same condition. We flag lenses at least 20% below their typical price, used against used and new against new, with delivery included. Anything 60% or more below is more likely a mistake or a scam, so we don't show it at all. See today's deals.

Condition grades differ between shops. "Excellent" at one can mean "Good" at another, so read the description and look at the photos, not just the grade.